We entered this small but very nice and idyllic country coming from Burkina Faso. Our dear friend Serge, who lives now back in Vienna, is originally from here. Therefore we visited his family home in Niamtougou and stayed there for the night. Herbie and the camper were parked under a mango tree.

In this country, formally called the “Republic of Upper Volta”, we had no single check-point by the police or military so far. People are very, very friendly, even though Burkina Faso (understood as the “fatherland of upright people”) is one of the poorest countries on earth. The landscape is changing as we’re heading further east. We passed Ouagadougou and are spending the night in Koupéla.

Yesterday we left Bamako and crossed the border to Burkina Faso. We had to say “good-bye” to Harald, who stayed with us in Mali’s capital. On the highway we stopped for taking some pictures and as usual we were suddenly surrounded by a bunch of kids and we gave a granola bar to each one of them.

Actually we planned to leave Bamako today in the morning. At the last moment we thought, “Let’s see, maybe there is also a Nigerian embassy in Bamako!?”. And yes, there it was, even in walking distance from our camp. So we went there…

We filled out the application form, handed out passport photos as well as copies of our passports and the Mali visas. We paid about 125 US-Dollar each, but we got multiple entry visas and these on the very same day. Domi just picked them up!

Since we entered Africa, almost everybody has been asking us, “Deux chevaux?” (referring to the French classic car, Citroën 2CV), whenever they saw our Love Bug. Moreover we’ve never seen so many admirer for our little car.

Maybe also because we’ve never spotted a VW Bug in Africa so far, but we got tons of serious offers to buy Herbie. Generally there is still a lack of vehicles in Africa. Therefore the prices for used cars are about double as high as in Europe.

Yesterday we safely arrived in Bamako, the capital of Mali. Harald, a German traveler, who we’ve met during the whole border crossing procedure, showed us the perfect spot to stay. We’re staying for two nights. Tomorrow we’ll take off again.

It is great to have a safe place to stay in the seventh largest West African city. We also enjoyed having fresh showers, internet access and doing laundry.

Our harborage is “The Sleeping Camel” just besides the Niger River and around the corner of the German Embassy. The city center is in walking distance.

After leaving the Sahara Desert, Domi serviced Herbie a little bit, just as adjusting the brakes, greasing the axle, cleaning the oil bath filter and changing the fuel filter.

Yesterday we entered Mali. As the political situation is critical at the moment, we were forced to get escorted by the Malian police and military. We had to drive all the way from the Mauritanian border to Mali’s capital, Bamako, in one day.

You got a weird feeling, when a heavy-armed soldier is sitting next to you in your car and you’re driving twelve hours in order to reach the mandated destination: Bamako, Mali.

Three other tourists, a Polish couple and Harald from Germany (next to Zainab), crossed the border by car on the same day. None of us knew that we’d get an escort.

We all had to stay overnight at the military fort of Nioro, a bigger town close to the frontier. In the evening we were asked to meet the local chiefs of police and military.

There we had to pay a high-handed amount of money for all together two police men and two soldiers, who escorted us on our way hundreds of miles through Mali.

All men, armed with Kalashnikov rifles (also known as “AK-47”) and carrying a bunch of magazines, were sitting next to us in our cars, telling us not to stop. Finally, right before sunset, we reached the required destination, Mali’s capital, Bamako.

We wish you all the very best for the upcoming new year of 2013!

From Bamako in Mali, Domi & Zainab

In the last days we were driving through the Islamic Republic of Mauritania and also passed its capital, Nouakchott. Afterwards we headed east towards the towns of Aleg, Kiffa and Ayoun El-Atrouss. Endless police men stopped us, checking our passports as well as other documents and asking for bribe.

The condition of the road was getting miserable and gas very rare. We had to buy fuel at the so-called “marché noir” (black market) for a much higher price. Furthermore we’ve never seen so many dead animals on the side of the road. But it was wonderful to see all the camel herds along the way.

Most of the people in Mauritania are very poor. In general, it is important to us to only take pictures of people, when they are okay with it and when we feel it is appropiate. Our main focus while traveling is to discover the beauty of nature and to get to know the different “mentalities” and cultures of people, no matter if rich or poor.

It was like a “Fata Morgana”, simply unreal! Today we spotted a “QEK Junior” camper, sitting in the Sahara Desert. Apparently an East German traveled to Africa, pulling his little home all the way to Mauritania and eventually just left it behind. This was probably the first “QEK Junior” camper we’ve seen, while traveling since 2009. But unfortunately this one is not on the road anymore. Rest in Peace!

The worst thing that can happen to someone who is traveling through the desert, is to be stuck. As we arrived at the border of Mauritania (coming from Western Sahara), about 35 vehicles were already in front of us, also waiting to cross the frontier. It took us long seven hours for the whole border crossing procedure.

Another nightmare of touring across a desert is to have a car brake down. On our way through the Sahara, a Mauritanian family had a blow-out in the middle of nowhere. Though they were carrying a spare tire, they had no proper tool to lift their car. So, we stopped and helped changing tires by using our jack.

Today we entered Western Sahara (also known as Sahara Occidental), a territory occupied by Morocco. As the name implies we’re crossing the Sahara Desert on its western side. The Great Sahara Desert is the world’s hottest desert.

Furthermore the Sahara is almost as large as the entire United States. The road is leading us besides the Atlantic Ocean, passing numerous dune landscapes and gusty sandstorms are our biggest enemy while heading across this deserted region.

We wish you a Merry Christmas and we hope that you all have wonderful holidays!

From the Atlas Mountains in Morocco, Domi & Zainab

Since we left Rabat, we’ve driven across the Atlas Mountains of Morocco where Herbie had to climb up to 7,145 feet (2,178 m) while pulling our little camper. On our way we passed countless oasis as well as snow-capped hills, mountain lakes and rivers.

We also had the chance to feed free-living Barbary apes in the woods of the Atlas range. And as we went downhill again, we saw camel herds on the side of the road. Today we left the Atlas and reached Tiznit, right besides the Atlantic Ocean.

Another long day ends! But tomorrow we’ll finally hit the road, leaving Rabat and start exploring the African continent. First we’ll be heading towards the Atlas Mountains.

Today we also went to the souk in old downtown, where Domi got his boots repaired. These were probably the first western boots the shoemaker ever had in his career.

For just two Bucks Domi got new shoe soles. Afterwards we were strolling through the market, buying a bunch of dates and other stuff we’ll need back on the road.

We came to Morocco’s capital in order to get as many visas we can and we eventually got almost all of them. Only the Embassy of Nigeria refused all our applications.

And the Embassies of the DRC (Democratic Republic of the Congo) and Sudan were asking us to obtain the visas in Brazzaville, Congo, and Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.

It took more than two weeks achieving visas for eight countries we like to visit on our trip across Africa. Visa fees varied between 40 and 130 US-Dollar (30 and 100 Euro).

Although we had to go through all different kinds of consular red tape, we really enjoyed spending time in Rabat. But now we are also very pleased to move on.

For our camper we ultimately got the “new” tires, we ordered the day before yesterday. Morocco seems to be a kind of after market, because the tires are from 2006.

The Love Bug’s Got the Travel Bug and is eager to start exploring continent number six. Welcome aboard and thank you for following our adventure around the globe!

There are just three visas left, we weren’t able to get so far. Nigeria defeated our application three times and DRC (Democratic Republic of the Congo) as well as Sudan are waiting for a decision from their headquarters in Kinshasa and Khartoum. Anyway we’ll have to leave Rabat before Christmas in order to meet visa validities of upcoming countries like the following three:

Mali

Burkina Faso

Cameroon

On our little camper, “QEK Junior”, we still have original “Pneumant” tires made in the German Democratic Republic (GDR). Unfortunately tomorrow we’ll change that.

The tire on the passenger side is totally worn out and has deep cracks, so Domi arranged an appointment with a local tire service station where we’ll get two new ones.

Instead of the original 155ers from 1985 we’ll get now 145ers by “Goodyear”. We’re speculating on less friction loss due slimmer tires. Maybe Herbie is a bit faster!

This tire change will be the first financial input on our GDR camper. We are really happy with the “QEK Junior”, because it is a almost maintenance-free vehicle.

Good news! We got already visas for seven countries since we are in Morocco’s capital. So, there are just four more left we are eager to get: Nigeria, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Cameroon and Sudan. Here are some examples we obtained so far:

Angola

Congo

Benin

Gabon

Yesterday we did a little sight-seeing tour visiting the old castle as well as the so-called “Kasbah of the Udayas” (Rabat’s ancient city walls) and its Andalusian Gardens. Later on we enjoyed time overlooking the city center while the sun slowly set.

Weekend – time for preparing a proper meal. Today we had steamed Hokkaido pumpkin with fresh sliced tomatoes, bell peppers, avocadoes and olives. Bon appetite!

Today we just escaped again a horrible car accident on our way out of the city center. And this was already number three today. A big truck just passed out to the side.

One of the major risks while traveling by car is to be involved in a crash. Almost every single day of traveling we’ve watched serious car accidents just in front of us. We are very grateful that we’ve never been involved. Herbie’s crash test rating fails!

Herbie’s engine lost or burnt not a single drop of oil on our ongoing trip to Africa, although we’ve already driven more than 1,400 miles (2,200 kilometers) so far.

Domi did a great job when he rebuilt this motor on his own back in Austria. We are convinced that the small 1,200 cc engines (34 hp) are the longest lasting ones.

This cute little cat comes to visit us every day on our parking spot. Unfortunately it is hard to make her understand that we are vegetarians and we have nothing to offer.

Also other animals can be seen on a daily basis. Next to the shopping mall, where we usually park our Love Bug set-up, you can see cow herds passing by.

Finally Domi fixed the leaking window rubber seals of our camper “QEK Junior”. He used just simple transparent silicone he bought at the supermarket nearby.

We are so glad that we left Europe at the best time possible. There it was getting freezing cold and now in Morocco we can get very nice warm temperatures.

We’re spending now the second week in Morocco’s capital, Rabat. So far we got the visas for five countries, but we’re still applying for six more countries in Africa.

Morocco has always been (because of the Strait of Gibraltar) the major gate for Austrian expeditions to Africa. We also started our kind of “expedition” here.

After touring more than 96,000 miles (155,000 km) through countless countries around the world, we are now about to travel all across our last missing continent.

Yesterday we met Claudia Schneeweiss from the Austrian Embassy. The consul, Mr. Gottfried Haffner, and she were a great help in clearing some red tape visa hurdles.

It felt really haimish to us visiting the domicile of the Austrian diplomatic representation. Thank you, Miss Schneeweiss, for your hospitality and kind support!